Chasing the Volcano: Hike & Explore Cotopaxi’s Wild Side
- eovillafuerte
- Apr 16
- 7 min read
Updated: 7 days ago
Everything You Need to Know: Camping, Hikes, Transport & More
Cotopaxi isn’t just another volcano on the map—it’s a moment. A place that makes you slow down, breathe in the crisp air, and realize just how wild and beautiful Ecuador can be. I spent a couple of days exploring Cotopaxi National Park, and here’s the full breakdown—from how to get there to where to pitch your tent.
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Getting to Cotopaxi: Car or Bus?
I didn’t rent a car while I was in Ecuador—I took the bus, and honestly? It adds a bit of adventure to the whole thing. I do speak Spanish and that helps a ton so make sure to learn a bit before visiting Ecuador! I headed out from Terminal Quitumbe in southern Quito, where there are regular buses heading toward Latacunga, Ambato, or Riobamba. The ride is smooth and cheap—around $2 to $4 USD, depending on your destination. I believe the last time I went to Cotopaxi, it was around $2.50 one way in 2024.
Make sure to tell the driver you want to get off at “El Chasqui”, a small highway-side stop that’s basically a jumping-off point for Cotopaxi National Park. You could also just mention Cotopaxi National Park or "parque nacional de Cotopaxi" in Spanish and the driver will know exactly where to drop you off. From there, you can climb up and cross the bridge towards the traffic circle. From there, you can hitch a ride with a local camioneta (truck taxi) toward the park entrance. It cost me about $15 to go to the rinconada campground, but if you're lucky, you can split that with other travelers doing the same thing. Heads up! There is a small fee and paperwork you will need to fill out. I believe I was charged 2.50 for the paperwork but there is no fee to enter. I believe the current rule is you need a "guide" to get you in. I always use my buddy, Francisco to get me in. He's a taxi driver, mountain guide, and all around nice guy. He charged me less than everyone else and made me feel as if he was there to help and not just get as much money as he could out of "rich tourists." His Whatsapp is +593985019926 if you would like to contact him. He's extremely knowledgeable, kind, and trustworthy
If no taxis are around when you arrive, just ask at the local shops—people are used to visitors passing through, and someone’s almost always willing to help. It's doubtful that there wouldn't be any taxis though. We have gone in the wet season and during the week before, and there was someone there waiting. If not, you can visit Rondador Cotopaxi. It is a cute restaurant, and they have numbers and information for everything you would need. You could also walk, but it's a long stretch on a dusty road. I wouldn’t recommend that unless you're really up for a slog. I have walked back, and it's about an 8 mile hike. I repeat! I do not recommend it.
Getting Around the Park
Once you’re inside, it’s a different world—massive open plains, volcanic dust, herds of wild horses, and that perfect cone of Cotopaxi watching over everything. Without your own vehicle, you’ll need to rely on walking, hitching rides, or pre-arranged transport (like a guide, camioneta or tour from Latacunga or Quito).
If you’re traveling light and friendly, you can often hop into someone’s pickup or ask around at the ranger station for help getting to Laguna Limpiopungo or the Refugio parking lot.
Some people bike into the park, but it’s a grind with all the elevation. If you're traveling by bus like me, your best bet is to plan one or two main destinations inside the park and organize a ride out in advance if you're not staying overnight.
Costs: What You’ll Pay & What’s Free
One of the absolute best things about Cotopaxi is that the park entrance is free. You’ll stop at the ranger station, hand over your passport info, get a quick safety talk, and be on your way.
Here’s roughly what I spent:
Bus from Quito to El Chasqui: $2.50
Truck taxi to park entrance: $10
Hitch or arranged ride deeper into the park: free (If you get lucky!)
Camping: Free or $3 a night at some designated camping spots.
Lunch/snacks before entering the park: $5
Optional transport or guide inside the park: ~$20–30 if needed
If you want to go with a tour from Quito that includes round-trip transport and maybe even meals or a guide, prices typically start around $40–60 for a day trip.
Camping in Cotopaxi
Camping here is a highlight. Each time I camped here, I stayed in either the Riconada bunks or outside their facilities both for a fee. It's $3 a night to camp and $12 to stay in their hut which also comes with a meal and both come with a free hot drink. It's usually empty so the entire place just feels as if you have the whole place to yourself.
Camping is allowed in specific zones or nowhere depends on who you ask. I would recommend asking the rangers to where it’s best to set up based on current conditions but in Ecuador, sometimes it felt as if they would just try and lead you to pay for services. Some people will tell you that their is no free camping, but my buddy Francisco would tell you it's allowed. The mountain huts are also available but much pricier. I was quoted $35-45 a night for the Cotopaxi Cara Sur hut and for the main hut (refugio Cotopaxi- Jose Rivas) which is where people stay to climb to the summit of Volcan Cotopaxi - The second highest peak in Ecuador.
Hikes Worth Doing
There’s no shortage of trails in Cotopaxi, but if you’re coming by bus and don’t have much time, here are the ones I’d absolutely recommend:
José Rivas Refuge Hike
This is the most popular day hike within Cotopaxi National Park. While relatively short, it presents a moderate challenge due to the high elevation. The trail begins at approximately 4,600 meters (15,091 feet) and climbs to the José Rivas Refuge at 4,864 meters (15,953 feet) over a distance of about 1.6 kilometers (1 mile).
Despite the limited distance, the 264-meter (866-foot) elevation gain combined with thin air at high altitude can make the ascent physically demanding. Hikers should expect to take 40 to 60 minutes depending on their pace and acclimatization.
The trail surface consists of volcanic ash, loose gravel, and sand, requiring sturdy footwear and careful footing. Weather conditions can shift rapidly, with strong winds and sudden cold snaps common. On clear days, the hike offers panoramic views of the glacier above and distant volcanoes, including Chimborazo, the highest peak in Ecuador.
This hike is ideal for visitors who want a high-altitude experience without technical climbing, and it also serves as an acclimatization route for those planning to summit Cotopaxi.
Laguna Limpiopungo Loop
Laguna Limpiopungo offers a gentle and scenic walk suitable for all fitness levels. The loop trail is approximately 1.5 kilometers (0.9 miles) long and circles a tranquil, high-altitude lake at an elevation of around 3,800 meters (12,467 feet).
This flat, well-marked path is ideal for visitors who are still acclimating to the altitude or prefer a more relaxed experience. The area is known for its picturesque views of Cotopaxi Volcano, especially when the skies are clear, making it a favorite spot for photography and wildlife observation.
Birdwatchers may spot Andean coots, ducks, and other highland species, while wild horses occasionally graze near the trail. The loop typically takes 30 to 60 minutes to complete at a leisurely pace, offering plenty of opportunities to stop and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and expansive Andean landscape.
Rumiñahui Volcano
The Laguna Limpiopungo loop is a gentle and scenic walk that caters to visitors of all fitness levels. This 1.5-kilometer (0.9-mile) circuit surrounds a peaceful, high-altitude lake located at approximately 3,800 meters (12,467 feet) above sea level.
The trail is flat, well-maintained, and easy to follow, making it particularly suitable for those who are acclimating to the elevation or seeking a low-impact outdoor activity. Clear days offer panoramic views of Cotopaxi Volcano, creating an impressive backdrop that draws photographers and nature enthusiasts alike.
The lagoon area is also a notable spot for wildlife observation. Visitors may encounter Andean coots, ducks, and various other bird species, and wild horses are occasionally seen grazing near the water’s edge. Completing the loop typically takes 30 to 60 minutes, depending on pace and stops, and provides an excellent opportunity to appreciate the tranquil beauty of the páramo landscape.
Sights to See (That Aren’t Just the Volcano)
Everyone comes for the volcano, but Cotopaxi National Park has so many other little gems that make it worth exploring slowly:
Laguna Limpiopungo: A dream at sunrise or sunset. You might spot Andean coots, cara caras, and even condors if you’re lucky.
Wild horses and highland wildlife: I saw whole herds grazing in the distance—majestic and totally wild.
Old lava flows and petrified forests: Look around and you’ll see the park’s volcanic past everywhere.
The high paramo landscape: It's hauntingly beautiful—endless golden grass, icy streams, and jagged peaks.
Places to Stay Nearby
I camped inside the park, but there are plenty of places to stay if you want a real bed and a hot shower.
Inside the park:
Tambopaxi Lodge – Rustic and atmospheric, with amazing views of the volcano. Pricey but worth it for the location.
Refugio José Rivas – Very basic, but if you’re hiking early or want to acclimate. Bring a sleeping bag.
Outside the park:
Secret Garden Cotopaxi – Probably the most famous traveler spot around here. Hammocks, hot tubs, friendly dogs, and volcano views. You can also get transport from Quito with them.
Hacienda El Porvenir – Charming and eco-conscious, with horseback riding and farm-to-table meals.
If you're doing Cotopaxi as a day trip, Latacunga also has budget hostels where you can crash for the night after exploring.
Extra Tips I Wish I Knew
Start early. Clouds roll in by noon, and you’ll miss the best views if you arrive too late.
Dress in layers. The weather changes by the hour—sunny, then freezing wind, then hail.
Acclimatize if you can. Spend a night in Latacunga or hike around Limpiopungo first if you’re not used to the altitude.
Offline maps are a must. There’s no signal in most of the park, so download Maps.me or Google Maps offline.
Don’t expect facilities. No shops, no ATMs, and only basic bathrooms at the refuge and Limpiopungo.
Cotopaxi will completely blow you away. Even without a car.
Let me know if you want help planning your route or what to pack—I’ve got you covered.
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